Key Behavior: Distractions

What does success look like? The ideal response to any distraction is that the dog automatically attends to the handler without verbal intervention or physical blocking. The dog should be able to observe a distraction while stationary or walk past it normally, without attempting to outright avoid the distraction either.

Why is success important? We live in busy and unpredictable environments where distractions abound. Assistance dogs must learn to observe, but not interact with, everything including other dogs, children running, tasty food, loud noises, outstretched hands, and more. Automatically attending to the handler when distractions are present allows the dog to focus back on their work rather than on the external environment. Most dogs will join their clients as they go about daily life, and the dog must remain focused without responding to every distraction that may come along. Dogs that cannot ignore most distractions are unlikely to be successfully placed with a client.

Generalization Checklist:

1. Practice reorientation to handler skills (Puppy Zen) at home before attempting it outside of the home.
2. Reward every time the dog reorients to you.
3. The dog learns to ignore distractions without a verbal cue (for example, "Leave it.").
4. Allow the dog to observe distractions from a distance.
5. Vary distractions (things they can see, things they can hear, things they can smell, things they can feel, etc.).
6. Plan outings and distraction exposures in advance and have a plan to move away from the distraction or leave the outing if it is too much for the dog.
7. Increase the difficulty level of distractions slowly.
8. Attend classes and outings where distractions can be practiced in a controlled environment.

Resources:

• Puppy Zen (video)
• Exposure Training (video)
• Public Outing Guides

Related Common Cues: 

• Yes!

Key Behavior: Down time

What does success look like? Dogs develop an "off switch," meaning they are able to quietly rest and relax when not actively being engaged by a handler. The dog does not exhibit attention-seeking behaviors.

Why is success important? Clients must be able to go about daily life without interruptions from their assistance dog requesting engagement or direction. For most dogs, the majority of time spent with their client will be waiting patiently for their services to be needed. It is important for the dogs to be relatively "unseen" until they are needed to work.

Generalization Checklist:

1. 1. Teach the dog to go to a mat; reward for lying in one spot.
   2. Capture and reward when the dog chooses calm behavior.
   3. Ignore the dog's requests for attention when you have not asked for it.
   4. Provide quiet, self-entertainment options (Nylabone/Benebone or stuffed Kong).
   5. Tether the dog to you or step on the leash to limit busy activity options.
   6. Fade food reinforcement as the dog becomes more proficient. Rotate with calm pets or quiet praise.
   7. Increase the length of time expected (duration) slowly.
   8. Use the release word "Okay!" when the dog is free to move.
   9. Go on outings where you sit in one place and watch the world go by (do nothing). Reward the dog for calm relaxation only.

Resources:

Key Behavior: Equipment

What does success look like? The dog will be exposed to many potential forms of equipment, such as a seat belt harness, leashes, and head collars. It is critical that the dog is introduced properly in order to ensure their comfort, as well as allow ease of use for future placements. The dog should eagerly move towards any presented equipment and wait calmly while getting dressed. While wearing equipment, the dog should not attempt to remove or rub/scratch at the items; the equipment should not distract from work.

Why is success important? Assistance dogs may be required to wear a variety of equipment when working with their client, including a head halter, walking/balance harness with handle, cape, and collar. It is imperative that clients find it simple to put equipment on and take equipment off. For clients with limited mobility, the dog must play an active role in getting dressed and undressed. The more these skills are practiced during training, the easier they will be for the client once the dog is placed with them.

Generalization Checklist:

1. Begin by getting the dog comfortable sharing space near you and coming in towards your body. Reward with calm verbal praise; kibble and low, slow petting.
2. Practice having the dog share your space while you are in different positions (sitting, kneeling, bending over, and standing).
3. Pair showing the dog its equipment with a reward.
4. Reward the dog for moving toward the equipment.
5. Reward the dog for remaining still while you attach and detach equipment. Stuffed Kongs, licky mats, or higher value rewards may be used.
6. Keep practice sessions short with encouragement and rewards high.
7. Practice at home to work on making positive associations with all equipment. Ensure the dog is comfortable in the equipment before taking them in public with it.
8. Increase the duration of wearing the equipment slowly.
9. Incorporate the use of a visit and chin rest to put on and remove equipment.
10.  Enlist the help of others to practice dressing the dog so the dog becomes comfortable with someone other than the primary handler completing this task.

* Gentle Leaders and Halti head halters should not be introduced to puppies until they are 5 months of age. Body harnesses should not be introduced until the puppy is 1 year of age.

Resources:

• Introducing a cape (video)
• Gentle Leader Instructions
• Halti Head Halter Instructions 
• Halti No-Pull Harness Instructions
• Fitting a Head Halter (video)
• Head Halter - Introduction Example (video)
• Watch a 20 Week old puppy start Halti training (video)

Related Common Cues: 

• Get Dressed
• Stand
• Sit
• Visit
• Chin

Key Behavior: Exams and Grooming

What does success look like?
The dog should be tolerant of handling in regard to veterinary exams and grooming, such as bathing, brushing, ear cleaning, teeth checks, nail trims, and blood draws. These behaviors should be practiced often both in reality, as well as mock versions. The dog should be rewarded for being cooperative and calm during any handling. Handling should be free of force and paced at the dog's tolerance. However, the dog should be acclimated to, and tolerant of, mild restraint.

Why is success important?
Assistance dogs are handled by humans a great deal over the course of their careers. Dogs may need to be examined for a variety of medical reasons, and they also are in need of regular grooming and general care including brushing, bathing, oral hygiene, ear cleaning, and nail trims. The more these skills are practiced during training, the easier they will be for the client once the dog is placed with them.

Generalization Checklist:

• Begin by getting the dog comfortable sharing space near you and coming in towards your body.
• Reward with calm, verbal praise; kibble; and low, slow petting. Stuffed Kong's, licky mats, or higher-value rewards may be used.
• Practice having the dog share your space while you are in different positions (sitting, kneeling, bending over, and standing).
• Practice having the dog share your space in a variety of different locations (at home, on a neighborhood walk, during an outing, etc.).
• Pair touching the dog's head, ears, mouth, collar, etc. with rewards.
• Pair touching the dog's back, shoulders, legs, belly, tail, and feet with rewards.
• Be sure to move along all parts of the dog's body and lift feet off the ground one at a time while the dog is standing.
• Practice applying pressure to the dog's body (hugs), legs, and feet/toes.
• Increase duration slowly.
• Allow the dog to guide the session and release or lighten pressure if the dog displays resistance.
• Enlist the help of others to examine the dog.

Resources

• Grooming and Care Guidelines
• Grooming Basics (Video)
• Let Me Look (Video)

Related Common Cues

• Settle
• Stand
• Sit
• Visit
• Chin
• Down
• Shake
• Wait
• Get Dressed

Key Behavior: Food Manners

What does success look like?
The dog learns to sit and wait politely for a release word to eat their meals. They develop impulse control around food; they do not jump up when a bowl is carried over their head or fixate on treat carriers, including hands. The dog does not react if they are approached while eating. Dogs will also take treats gently from the hand.

Why is success important?
Assistance dogs will need to exhibit a great deal of impulse control around a variety of different food sources, including their food/rewards, countertop temptations, and spilled food—both in public and at home! Guarding food resources, begging, and scavenging food are behaviors that may limit placement or exclude a dog from placement. For their safety and the safety of clients and other pets, dogs must be polite and trustworthy in the presence of food.

Generalization Checklist:

1. Practice the "elevator game" at meal times with the dog's food dish. As you lower the dish, raise it back up if the dog jumps or comes toward it. Repeat this until you are able to set the dish on the floor. The dog is released with "Okay" and only gets access to their food dish if they remain in place.
2. Play the"Puppy Zen" game. Place a piece of kibble in the palm of your hand and make a fist. Present your fist to the dog. If the dog bumps, mouths or paws at your hand, keep your first closed. Only open your first and allow the dog to eat the kibble after they stop trying to get the cookie and offer eye contact instead.
3. Extend "Puppy Zen" from food in your hand to food in a dish or treat pouch or even on the ground! All food presented should equal eye contact with the handler.
4. Practice the "Slow Cookie" game. Kibble is brought slowly toward the dog's nose/mouth. When the dog pauses or moves away from the kibble, the reward can be given. If the dog moves toward the kibble, the kibble is withheld and presented again when the dog again offers a calm and relaxed demeanor.
5. Practice "trading" a dish of food with a frozen stuffed Kong or a stuffed Kong with a food puzzle toy.
6. As much as possible, feed meals by hand. If you can train for all the kibble, great!

• Impulse Control (video)
• Puppy Zen (video)
• Slow Cookies (video)

Related Common Cues: 

• Yes
• Find it!
• Okay!

Key Behavior: Four on the Floor

What does success look like?
The dog learns to keep all four feet on the ground at all times, except when explicitly cued to jump up or step onto a surface. They do not jump up during excitement, greetings, or play. They understand to stay off of all furniture and counters.

Why is success important?
Assistance dogs need to be well-mannered members of a household and society. For safety reasons, they cannot jump up when greeting or passing by strangers (or friends!).  Even assistance dogs are not allowed on furniture in public for sanitary reasons (unless it relates to a specific task). We also must consider that an assistance dog may not be allowed on furniture in the client's home for safety reasons. They must also be trusted not to explore countertops for food or other items.

Resources:

• Impulse Control (video)
• Managing Meals (video)
• Greetings without Jumping (Handout)
• Door Manners & Greetings (Webinar)
• Counter Surfing & Stealing (Handout)
• Counter Surfing & Stealing (Webinar)

Related Common Cues: 

• Off
• Up
• Step
• Out
• Kennel
• Go mat!
• Okay!

Key Behavior: Learning

What does success look like? The dog should be introduced early to a variety of positive learning methods. It is important that the dog can follow hand and food lures, as well as learn the importance of becoming operant for shaping behaviors. Two reward markers are used: "Yes" (capture/end a behavior and indicates the reward comes from the hand) and "Find it" (capture/end a behavior and indicates the reward will be tossed on the floor).

Why is success important? Before a dog can tug open a door, go “under” or even “down,” they need to know how to learn. Experiences teach a dog many things through behavior and consequence. Humans can train countless cues and skills by taking advantage of these principles when working with animals. A great side effect of training and learning with rewards (versus punishment) is that we see an increased desire to learn. Dogs that love to learn develop a high work ethic—an extremely good characteristic for an assistant dog to have! Because we teach so many complex skills, our dogs also need to know how to learn in a variety of ways. Some skills are easier to set up with a hand lure or target; some are easier to train through shaping. All behaviors can be marked with a “Yes” or “Find it,” showing how these cues are a key component in the training process!

Generalization Checklist:

1. Build value for the "Yes" cue by saying the cue and immediately following it with a kibble reward from your hand.
2. Show the dog the kibble in your hand and then move it away from the dog. Allow them to eat it when they follow your hand.
3. Present your (empty) hand and reward the dog for looking at it and moving toward it.
4. Allow the dog to learn at their own pace. Back up to the last step that the dog was able to easily understand or perform if it is clear that the dog is confused or has lost confidence.
5. Start new training sessions with skills that the dog can easily achieve before adding in new behaviors.
6. Reward the dog for attempting close approximations to your desired behavior. (Example: reward the dog for shifting its weight to one front leg when attempting to teach the dog to "shake.")
7. Build the dog's confidence in offering behaviors by encouraging them to problem solve. This can be done through the use of puzzle toys (the dog is rewarded for trying different ways to get the kibble reward) and through free-shaping. Free-shaping involves marking and rewarding without luring or providing other input. When free-shaping, you will wait to "capture" the dog giving you approximations to your desired behavior and then marking ("Yes") and rewarding when the dog offers them.
8. Encourage the dog for trying. Provide verbal praise even if the attempt was not what you were hoping for ("Good dog! Try again.").
9. Reset the dog by tossing kibble and cueing the dog to "Find It." This allows them to move away from you, take a mental break and try again.
10. Explore other rewards that the dog may find reinforcing. These may include playing with toys or games (tug or fetch), touching/petting, allowing for freedom of movement (releasing from a stationary position), giving verbal praise, etc. Each dog is an individual and will find different things rewarding.

Resources:

• Can Do Canines Training Guidelines
• Animal Learning Theory - Part 1 (webinar)
• Animal Learning Theory - Part 2 (webinar)
• Training Methods in Action (video)
• Shaping Training (video)
• Shaping - Nose Touch to Ball (video)

Related Common Cues: 

• Yes
• Find It

Key Behavior: Loose-Leash Walking

What does success look like? Taught as an automatic behavior where the dog provides slack to the leash through a combination of distraction training, perch work, and early tethering. The dog remains engaged with an awareness of the handler at all times, remaining on the side as designated by the handler. This awareness includes miming direction and pace changes, including stopping when the handler stops and remaining in a stand. The handler reinforces loose-leash walking via reward timing and placement as well as consistently responding to a tight leash.

Why is success important? Walking calmly at the client's side without pulling, lagging back or cutting in front of or behind the client is the cornerstone of the dog and client being able to move through the world together as a team. The dog must be reliable in their walking skills and the client must have trust in the dog's walking abilities in order to maintain a sense of confidence and independence. Dogs that do not succeed in this key behavior are not able to be placed with a client.

Generalization Checklist:

1. Build value for heel and side positions by rewarding the dog frequently in these positions.: With the dog next to you, take a step forward and give the dog a kibble reward for stepping forward with you. Run away from the dog and reward them in position when they catch up to you.
2. Tether the dog to you with a leash to allow for frequent opportunities for the dog to move with you and reward for following your movements.
3. Perch work - teaches the dog how to target a perch with their front feet and keep them in a defined location.
4. Pocket hand - used to show the dog how to pivot their rear legs while keeping their front legs in a defined area. (Rotation of the dog's head causes the rear legs to move).
5. Perch training and pocket hand combined together to become the foundational skills that allow the dog to move smoothly between heel and side positions.
6. Cookie magnet the dog past high-level distractions. Place a handful of kibble in the palm of your hand and place your palm under the dog's nose. Lure them forward while allowing them to eat the kibble rewards one at a time while moving past the distraction.
7. Reward the dog for checking in with you when distractions are present. You can mark them for noticing a distraction with a "yes" and reward them when they look back at you.
8. When you stop moving, reward the dog quickly at your side. If the dog sits, continues to move forward, lays down, etc. do not reward and start again. Pause and encourage the dog to "wait" as you move through doorways and transitions.
9. As the dog becomes more proficient at loose-leash walking, incorporate backing up, side-stepping, speed, and movement changes into your training.
10. Dogs should be comfortable walking next to wheelchairs, walkers, canes, grocery carts, and scooters. Dogs must be able to walk nicely among a variety of novel distractions and maintain their focus on their handler in the face of distractions.

Dealing with pulling:

1. Penalty yards: Backing up until the dog gets close to your side (usually 3-5 steps back), then immediately going forward again without pausing.
2. 180’s: Turning around and going in the opposite direction. This is best done when you don’t have a “goal” location to walk towards but are practicing on a neighborhood walk or an empty lot.
3. Big circle: The circle is similar to the 180 in that you change direction. But instead of doing a 180, you make a large circle with the dog on the outside. Think of lunging a horse. Go forward once you're facing the direction you wanted to go again or circle again until your dog starts to calm down. This works best for dogs who have a ton of energy or for dogs who seem distracted by everything in all directions!
4. Stop and be a tree: Stop and wait for your dog to come back to your side before moving forward. This works best for advanced dogs who will notice you stopping and instantly try to fix themselves.

Resources:

• Pocket Hand Tutorial (video)
• Perch Intro (video)
• Pocket Hand Plus Perch (video)
• Perch Fade Pocket Hand (video)
• Walking is Working!
• Loose-Leash Walking Training & Troubleshooting
• Leash Lessons
• Transitions & Runways
• Loose-Leash Walking with a Puppy (video)
• Loose-Leash Walking with a Tween Dog (video)
• Loose-Leash Walking with an Adult Dog (video)

Related Common Cues: 

• Name
• Let's Go
• Okay
• Yes
• Wait

Key Behavior: Novel Stimuli Response

What does success look like? The dog is exposed to a variety of unique events, including sudden noises, touching, and movements, in order to groom appropriate responses. The dog may investigate (if the situation is safe to do so) and be rewarded for doing so, and encouraged if needed. As with distractions, the dog becomes comfortable with unpredictable events that occur and in general attends to the handler and ignore the event without reaction or fear.

Why is success important? We live in busy and unpredictable environments where loud noises, surprise touching, and novel stimuli abound. Assistance dogs must learn to observe and take in stimuli while not being overly excited, worried, or frightened by the external environment. Most dogs will join their clients as they go about daily life and the dog must remain focused without responding to every distraction that may come along. Dogs that cannot ignore most stimuli are unlikely to be successfully placed with a client.

Generalization Checklist:

1. Allow the dog to observe a wide variety of sights and sounds from a distance. Mark the dog's calm interest in looking at the stimuli with a “Yes” and reward.

2. In an active area, like a big box retail parking lot, sit on a bench or hang out in your vehicle with the door open so you and the dog can watch the world go by. Mark and reward the dog for calmly noticing stimuli.

3. Provide opportunities for the dog to walk over a variety of different surfaces and textures.

4. Provide opportunities for the dog to hear a variety of sounds from a distance as well as close up.

5. Allow the dog to experience the world by going on regular exposure outings.

6. Encourage the dog to explore novel stimuli by sniffing or getting a closer look.

7. If the dog finds a stimulus overly exciting, move away and provide space between the dog and the stimuli. Find the distance where the dog can remain calm and reward -or- request an alternative behavior (hand nudge, eye contact, go mat, etc.)

8. If the dog finds a stimulus worrisome, move further away from the stimuli. You can also toss a “find it” kibble away from the concerning stimuli to take the pressure away.

Do not force or lure the dog to investigate or engage with anything that they find worrisome or frightening. Be aware of stress signals in dogs, and move away or leave if the dog seems overly concerned. Give the dog a break to allow them to process the information, you can always try again another day.

Resources:

• Exposure Checklist
• Exposure Training Session (video)
• Pandemic Puppy Socialization
• Noise Desensitization (video)
• Noise & Novelty (video)
• Stress & Dogs

Related Common Cues:

• Yes
• Find It
• Let's Go
• Okay

Key Behavior: Potty Manners

What does success look like? The dog is able to do their business on cue, in a variety of locations, and on any surface available, including but not limited to concrete, pea gravel, artificial turf, grass, rocks, wood chips, and pavement. While the dog must be able to eliminate where and when the option is available, the dog must understand when not to eliminate as well; house training extends to public areas so the dog is able to hold their movements for up to 8 hours if needed. The dog must be able to eliminate off and on the leash (as short as 3 feet) while the handler remains in one place.

Why is success important? Clients reside in a variety of locations with varied environments. As a dog moves through daily life with their client they may encounter diverse elimination options, from small urban cement potty spots to palatial grass-filled suburban yards. A dog that is comfortable eliminating whenever and wherever the option is made available allows the client the freedom and confidence to have the dog join them wherever their life may lead. A dog that eliminates inappropriately is unlikely to be successfully placed with a client.

Generalization Checklist:

1. Indicate that it is ok for the dog to eliminate by using the cue "get busy." Reward the dog with a "Yes! Good busy!" and kibble snacks when they do eliminate appropriately.
2. Become a tree - stop moving, allow the dog a specified length of the leash, cue "get busy" and wait for the dog to eliminate. Practice this with a variety of leash lengths so the dog does not grow accustomed to eliminating at a specific distance away from you.
3. Cue the dog to eliminate and if they do not take the opportunity to do so readily, move on and try again in another location.
4. Think beyond your backyard and daily walking path. Seek out a variety of different elimination locations and surfaces for the dog to practice getting busy.
5. Learn your dog's cues for when they need to eliminate. Some dogs are very clear, while others are more subtle. Each dog is an individual and will express their need to get busy in different ways.
6. Establish a routine. When a dog knows when they can expect to eat, drink, sleep and eliminate it makes potty training much smoother.
7. Confinement is key - a young puppy should be kept in a small area in the home (use an exercise pen or baby gates to keep them in an easy-to-clean area). The puppy earns access to more of the home over time by displaying their reliable potty training skills.

Resources:

• Housebreaking Guide
• Canine Development

Related Common Cues:

• Get busy
• Yes
• Let's Go

Key Behavior: Toys

What does success look like? Playing with toys is highly encouraged. Ideally, the dog will be able to self-entertain with items such as bones and Kongs and can practice parallel play around other dogs. It is important that the dog learns proper play and does not engage in keep-away, stealing, guarding toys as well as understands what items are appropriate toys vs household items. Dogs should learn to "trade" one toy for another (or for a treat) with their handler. Playing fetch and tug with the handler are excellent for relationship building and exercise.

Why is success important? Dogs need to play! Play provides an outlet for physical as well as mental energy. Play is also an excellent way for a client and dog to quickly establish a relationship and bond. Dogs also need to be able to chew and play with toys independently and must not look to their client to hold bones or provide constant interaction. Games like tug and fetch provide foundational skills for several assistance dog tasks.

Generalization Checklist:

1. Have a variety of toy options available and rotate toys to keep the puppy interested.
2. Animate toys by rolling, pulling, or tossing them.
3. Create value in toys by marking and rewarding the puppy for showing interest in them.
4. Teach the puppy to trade. Toss a toy and encourage the puppy to come back to you as you trade the item for kibble or another toy. Higher value treats or toys may be used if the puppy shows hesitation in returning or trading items.
5. Teach the puppy to tug. Animate a toy and when the puppy has a grip on it provide light resistance. Most puppies will naturally pull back on the toy - allow the puppy to provide the resistance. Be careful not to pull too hard to yank the toy from the puppy's mouth. Keep the puppy's head parallel to the ground - do not tug up above the height of the puppy's head to pull hard from side to side.
6. Encourage chewing by having a variety of chew toys available. Offer a bone to a puppy that is chewing on you or any other inappropriate item. (Keep in mind, Nylabones and Benebones are the only program-approved chew toys).
7. Encourage exploration and self-entertainment with puzzle toys. Ditch the food bowl - puzzle toys are an excellent substitute for a food dish.

Resources:

• Baby Retrieves
• Resource Guarding Exercise
• Canine Development
• Brain Games

Related Common Cues:

• Yes
• Find It

Key Behavior: Transitions

What does success look like? The dog will encounter and must react appropriately to boundary types, such as doorways, entries, stairways, elevators, and flooring changes. It is important that the dog is exposed to as many types of transitions as possible to ensure their familiarity and comfort as well as proper etiquette. Often, transitions occur at the end of a "runway" (hallway, aisle, or another type of funnel), which can implore the dog to bolt or pull forward at the end. The dog should instead learn to attend to the handler and calmly pass through when cued to do so.

Why is success important? Assistance dogs will encounter transitions everywhere they accompany their client. Transitions can be obvious, like moving through a doorway, or less obvious, like walking across a shadow on the sidewalk. No matter the transition type, the dog must walk calmly and confidently with their client. They must not be overly concerned or excited by what might lie beyond a closed door or around a corner. Dogs that avoid transitions or who cannot maintain control when encountering transitions are unlikely to be successfully placed with a client.

Generalization Checklist:

1. Start with positive associations for being at your side. Just like with loose leash walking, consistently reward the dog for choosing to be with you.
2. Build reinforcement for their name. Say the dog's name and reward. Help them learn that when you say their name good things follow and it pays to focus their attention on you.
3. Practice pausing before thresholds with a "Wait", and request the dog's focus and reward before cueing "Let's Go" and moving forward.
4. Maintain a short leash when working on transitions. If the dog moves out ahead of you before you have given them the cue, walk back a few steps and restart.
5. Begin working on simple transitions in low distraction environments. Work up to more difficult transitions with higher distractions slowly.
6. As the dog becomes more comfortable seek out novel transitions such as open grate stairways, artificial turf, automatic doors, rocks/gravel, etc.
7. Reward, reward, reward. Reward the dog for focusing on you before, during, and after you have moved through a transition.

If a dog shows any aversion to a particular transition, do not attempt to lure them through it. Move away and allow the dog to make the choice to reapproach Reward and proceed at the dog's comfort level.

Resources:

• Transitions & Runways
• Exposure Checklist
• Pandemic Puppy Socialization

Related Common Cues:

• Wait
• Let's Go
• Heel and Side
• Step

Key Behavior: Transitions

What does success look like? It is important that the dog is exposed to as many types of transportation as possible to ensure their familiarity and comfort as well as the proper etiquette. Suggested modes of transportation for passage may include car, truck or SUV, bus, tram, light rail, and trains. Please ensure the dog observes the use of skateboards, bicycles, motorcycles, and scooters, as well as emergency vehicles.

Why is success important? As we have noted with previous key behaviors, Assistance Dogs will spend most of their time moving through the world at their client's side. Dogs will encounter a variety of modes of transportation nearly everywhere they accompany their client. Dogs must be comfortable entering and exiting different types of transportation as well as riding comfortably while underway. Dogs must also be comfortable seeing and being near different modes of transportation  Dogs that avoid certain modes of transportation or show signs of discomfort while navigating in or around forms of transportation are unlikely to be successfully placed with a client.

Generalization Checklist:

1. Watch the world go by. Sit with the dog and reward them for watching different types of transportation go by. Pick a distance far enough away where the dog can be calm and relaxed. Move further away if the dog exhibits any signs of stress.
2. Move closer as the dog is comfortable. Allow the dog to eat kibble, play a game of tug or praise, and pet the dog while being near forms of transportation.
3. Spend time near/in your vehicle; feeding meals and allowing the dog to enjoy a stuffed Kong.
4. No destination is required! Have the dog practice loading "Up" and unloading "okay" into a vehicle for a kibble reward. For small puppies, lift them in and out. Begin with the car engine turned off. As the dog gains confidence, turn on the engine so they can feel the vibration of the engine
5. Introduce car travel slowly - begin by backing in & out of the driveway or quick trips around the block. Increase the length of car travel as the dog's confidence grows.
6. On a monthly basis, seek out busy locations where the dog can be exposed to modes of transportation.
7. For dogs who are comfortable with basic travel, introduce them to traveling on trains, buses, light rail, etc.